Where to start!

Talking about professional carpet and upholstery cleaning what kind of spotter to use on what kind of spot !
In the world of professional cleaning, the "spray and pray" method doesn't
cut it. To avoid setting a stain permanently or damaging fibers, you
have to match the chemistry of the spotter to the chemistry of the mess.

Cleansmart Technologies has a specific lineup designed for professional-grade results

1. General Soiling & Carbon-Based Spots

• The Spot: Dirt, foot traffic, soot, or mysterious grey/black marks.
• The Product: Sensa-Clean Pre Treat.
• Why:
  This is your "Swiss Army Knife." It's a plant-based, pH 6 (neutral-leaning) cleaner. It's safe on natural fibers and great because it doesn't require an acid rinse to neutralize.

2. Red Dye & Pigment Stains

• The Spot: Kool-Aid, red wine, fruit punch, or "mystery red."
• The Product: Ridz It Red Stain Remover or Or Brown-OUT (sodium metabisulfite) reducing agent.
• Why: This is a professional reducing agent designed specifically to "unlock" synthetic red dyes from the carpet fiber.

3. Biological & Urine Stains

• The Spot: Pet accidents or "old house" smells.
• The Products: * Urine Pre-Treat: Use this first to dissolve the alkaline salts.Ridz It Urine Stain Remover: This attacks the yellow pigment left behind.Power Zyme Plus: A heavy-duty enzyme booster for organic messes like vomit or feces. Or Even Odor Stain Blaster, Oxidizer.

4. Coffee, Tea, & Brown Outs

• The Spot: Coffee, tea, or "wicking" where a stain reappears as it dries.
• The Product: CleanSmart Brown Out, Urine Pre-Treat or Ridz-It Stain Remover.
• Why: Coffee contains tannins (acidic dyes). Urine Pre-Treat is actually formulated with an acidic pH that works double-duty as a tannin remover for coffee and tea.

5. Sticky Stuff (Gum, Tar, Grease)

• The Spot: Chewing gum, lipstick, or heavy grease.
• The Product: CleanSmart Gum Remover or Citra Blast Booster.
• Why: Citra Blast uses d-Limonene (citrus oil) to dissolve adhesives and oil-based gunk that water-based cleaners can't touch.

6. RUST For unwanted Rust stains.

Pro Tip for Upholstery

In the dry Colorado air, upholstery can dry too fast, leading to "wicking"
(where the dirt travels from the foam back to the surface).

• Recommended Product: Cleansmart Rinse & Protect.
• How it helps:
  It uses nano-technology to encapsulate residue and neutralize
  alkalinity, which is essential for delicate upholstery marked "W" or
  "W/S."

The case of the reoccurring spot?

It's back... The reason is most likely that the spot was not completely removed, or there is an excess of cleaning product left behind, or maybe it was left too wet and was not dried in a proper time (wicking).

SLOW DOWN !! Take the time to rinse, use several passed of your tool, and even blot with a towel. You may even want to use a fan or hair drier to dry the area.

A professional should Always carry a Tamping brush, clean towels, an Iron,and a tool to remove debris from the surface before he address the problem!

We have just scratched the surface on this topic... If you would like information in ths area please reach out!

Why would I boost a carpet prespray ? A carpet prespray is essentially "supercharging" your cleaning solution to handle specific soil types or extreme conditions that a standard formula might struggle with.You would typically boost a prespray to:

• Break Down Heavy Greases and Oils: Adding a citrus-based solvent
  (like d-Limonene) helps dissolve stubborn oily residues, soot, or food
  grease. This is common in restaurant or high-traffic commercial
  settings.
• Brighten Dull Fibers: An oxygen-based booster (peroxide) can be added to chemically alter stains and brighten dull, oxidized fibers, helping hidden colors "pop".
• Target Organic Stains: Using enzyme boosters helps biologically digest protein-based stains like food, blood, vomit, or pet urine.
• Manage Hard Water: Some boosters include water softeners that prevent hard water minerals from interfering with the detergent’s cleaning power.
• Accelerate Dwell Time:
  Boosting can make your chemicals work faster and harder, which is
  crucial when you need to finish a job quickly or deal with heavily
  "trashed" carpets.
• Neutralize Odors: Certain additives are designed to eliminate deep-seated odors while you clean, rather than just masking them. 

Warning:
Always pre-test your mixture. Over-boosting can raise the pH too high
for certain fibers (like wool) or leave behind a sticky residue that
causes the carpet to re-soil quickly.Discover the advantages of boosting carpet presprays with solvents, enzymes, and oxidizers for challenging cleaning scenarios:

Over view use oxidizers
(e.g., hydrogen peroxide) for organic stains like coffee, wine, urine,
and vomit, as they break down stain molecules with oxygen. Use reducers
(e.g., sodium metabisulfite) for synthetic dyes, artificial food
coloring, fruit drinks, and Kool-Aid. Oxidizers generally work on most
fibers except wool, while reducers are safe for most carpets, including wool.Key Considerations:

• Order of Application:
  Start with an oxidizer for unknown stains as it is less likely to set
  the stain. If the stain remains, rinse thoroughly and apply a reducer.
• Common Oxidizers: Peroxide-based treatments, often used for organic material.
• Common Reducers: Products like sodium metabisulfite, which work well on synthetic, man-made dyes.
• Heat Application: Reducers often require heat (steam) to activate, whereas oxidizers can be slower-acting.
• Exceptions: Mustard is a common exception that often requires a reducer, despite being organic. 

If unsure, start with a, oxidizer as it is less likely to cause permanent, irreversible damage to the carpet fibers.

The persistent glow of urine stains under ultraviolet (UV) or black light, even after cleaning, is a common and often perplexing issue for both professional cleaners and homeowners. This phenomenon is primarily due to the chemical composition of urine, specifically the presence of proteins and alkaline salts, which can remain embedded in carpet fibers and padding despite thorough cleaning efforts.

The Chemistry of Urine and Fluorescence
Urine contains various organic and inorganic compounds. When fresh, it is typically acidic, but as it dries, it undergoes a chemical transformation, becoming alkaline and forming crystalline deposits. These crystals, along with proteins and other organic residues, are the primary culprits behind the fluorescence observed under UV light.

Proteins
Proteins are complex organic molecules that can absorb UV light and re-emit it at a longer wavelength, causing them to fluoresce. Even a minuscule amount of protein can be enough to create a visible glow under a black light. This is similar to how forensic investigators use alternate light sources (ALS) to detect tiny specks of blood or other protein-containing body fluids at crime scenes.

Alkaline Salts (Uric Acid Crystals)
As urine dries, the uric acid it contains crystallizes into alkaline salts . These crystals are highly resistant to many standard cleaning agents and can become deeply embedded within carpet fibers, backing, and even the underlying padding or sub-floor. Like proteins, these crystalline structures can also fluoresce under UV light. The chemical alteration of these molecules by some cleaning solutions might neutralize the odor but not necessarily eliminate their fluorescent properties.

Why the Glow Persists After Cleaning
The challenge in completely eliminating the UV glow stems from several factors related to the nature of urine stains and the limitations of cleaning processes.

Deep Penetration
Urine, especially from pets, can penetrate beyond the surface of the carpet. It can seep into the carpet backing, the padding beneath, and even the sub-floor. Once these components are contaminated, removing all traces of the fluorescent compounds becomes significantly more difficult. Even if the visible stain and odor are gone from the face fibers, residual proteins and salts in deeper layers can still fluoresce.

Incomplete Removal of Contaminants
Traditional cleaning methods, while effective at removing visible stains and odors, often do not fully extract all the fluorescent compounds. When cleaning solutions are applied, they dissolve proteins and salts, but if the extraction process is not 100% efficient, a significant portion of these dissolved substances can be left behind. As the carpet dries, these residues remain, and their fluorescent properties persist. It's estimated that even with a very high percentage of soil and cleaning solution removal (e.g., 80%), enough protein and salt can be left to cause a glow.

Chemical Bonding
The acids in urine can bond with carpet fibers, and if left untreated, this bonding can lead to lasting stains. Similarly, the proteins and salts can become chemically bonded or physically trapped within the intricate structure of the carpet fibers, making them difficult to dislodge.

Impact of Cleaning Methods
Certain cleaning practices can inadvertently contribute to the persistence of the glow or make it harder to remove.

• Steam Cleaners and Hot Water: Using steam cleaners or hot water on urine stains is generally advised against. The heat can cause the proteins in the urine to bond more tightly with the carpet fibers, effectively "setting" the stain and making both the stain and odor, and consequently the glow, much harder to remove permanently.
• Aggressive Scrubbing: Forceful scrubbing can push urine deeper into the carpet padding, spreading the contamination and potentially damaging the carpet fibers.

Strategies to Reduce (But Not Always Eliminate) Fluoresce
While complete elimination of the UV glow can be exceptionally challenging, several strategies can help reduce its intensity.

Thorough Flushing and Extraction
Flooding the affected area with as much water as possible helps to dilute the proteins and salts in the wastewater . Using specialized tools like a water claw extraction tool can significantly improve water removal, which is crucial because any water that dries by evaporation will leave impurities behind. For items like rugs, applying acidic urine pre-treatment and water to the front while simultaneously extracting from the backside can be effective

.Oxidizers and Enzymatic Cleaners
For urine deposits that have penetrated deeply, powdered oxidizers can be used according to label directions. Oxidizers work by chemically altering the stain molecules. Enzymatic cleaners are particularly effective because they contain enzymes that break down the uric acid crystals and proteins in urine, neutralizing both the stain and odor. These cleaners digest the odor-causing compounds, which can also help in reducing the fluorescent residues.

Acidic and Alkaline Treatments
For lighter stains primarily on the face yarns, an alkaline pre-spray can be used to dissolve proteins, followed by an acid rinse to neutralize and extract alkaline salts. The use of white vinegar, which is acidic, can help neutralize the ammonia in urine and break down the stain. Baking soda, an alkaline substance, is excellent for absorbing odors and can help lift residues when applied while the spot is still wet.

UV Absorbers
In some cases, a UV absorber can be applied to the glow spots to hide the fluorescence. However, this is typically a cosmetic solution and can only be applied during subsequent cleanings.

Communicating with Clients
Given the difficulty in completely eliminating the UV glow, it is often best practice for cleaning professionals to manage client expectations upfront . Explaining that while odors and visible stains will be removed, some fluorescence might remain under a black light, can prevent misunderstandings and dissatisfaction. This transparency demonstrates honesty and expertise.In conclusion, the persistent glow of urine under UV light after cleaning is a complex issue rooted in the chemical properties of urine's proteins and alkaline salts. These compounds can deeply penetrate carpet materials and resist complete removal by even advanced cleaning techniques. While various methods can significantly reduce the glow, complete eradication is often elusive, making clear communication with clients essential.

The Cleansmart 5-Step Urine Recovery System

1. Detection (The Map)

• Action: Use a 365nm UV Light in a dark room.
• Goal: Identify the "glow" (mineral salts).
• Pro Tip: Mark the perimeter 2–3 inches wider than the glow, as urine spreads further in the padding than on the surface.

2. Mineral Dissolution (The Glow Killer)

• Product: Cleansmart Urine Pre-Treat.
• Action: Spray heavily on the identified spots.
• Why: This acidic step dissolves the uric acid crystals (the glow) and lowers the pH so your enzymes don't die.
• Dwell: 5–10 minutes. Do not rinse yet.

3. Biological Digestion (The Odor Killer)

• Product: Cleansmart Liqua-Zyme (Diluted 4:1 for heavy cases).
• Action: Perform a Pad Flush. Pour the solution so it penetrates the carpet backing and into the pad.
• Dwell: 30 minutes (keep it damp).
• Why: The live bacteria "eat" the nitrogen and proteins that cause the actual smell.

4. Sub-Surface Extraction (The Removal)

• Tool: Water Claw or Sub-Surface Extractor.
• Action: Place the tool over the spot and extract. Flush with warm water (not boiling) until the water in the sight-tube runs clear.
• Why: If you don't pull the liquefied urine out of the pad, it will "wick back" to the surface as it dries, bringing the smell and stain back with it.

5. Final Oxidation (The Brightener)

• Product: Cleansmart Odor Stain Blaster.
• Action: Lightly mist over the surface fibers after extraction is complete.
• Why: This destroys any remaining yellow pigment (stain) and acts as a final fail-safe for any lingering odor molecules.

Summary Checklist for Success

• [ ] pH Balance: Always use Urine Pre-Treat before Liqua-Zyme.
• [ ] Temperature: Keep water under 60°C (140°F) to keep enzymes alive.
• [ ] Separation: Never mix Liqua-Zyme and Odor Stain Blaster in the same bottle.
• [ ] Extraction: If it's in the pad, it must be extracted with a sub-surface tool, not just a wand.
  
  

PRO CHEAT SHEET: Urine Decontamination (Cleansmart System Step Action Product Why?

1. MAP UV Light Detection365nm Black-light Locates the"Glow" (mineral salts).
2. UNLOCK Acidic Pre-Spray Urine Pre-Treat Dissolves salts; kills the UV glow.
3. DIGEST Biological Flood Liqua-Zyme (4:1)Bacteria "eat" the organic odor source.
4. FLUSH Sub-Surface Extract Water Claw + Warm water pulls urine out of the padding/backing.
5. BLAST Post-Spotting Odor Stain Blaster Removes remaining yellow pigment .Critical Mixing & Tech Rules

• Dwell Time is King: Liqua-Zyme needs 20–30 minutes to work. Keep it damp; if it dries, the "bugs" stop eating.
• Watch the Heat: Never use water over 60°C (140°F). Boiling water kills the enzymes in Liqua-Zyme.
• The Golden Rule: NEVER mix Liqua-Zyme and Odor Stain Blaster in the same sprayer. The oxidizer will kill the enzymes instantly.
• The "Rule of Thumb": If you can smell it, it’s in the pad. If you can only see it, it’s in the fiber.

Quick Dilution Guide

• Liqua-Zyme (Heavy): 1 quart per gallon of water (4:1).
• Liqua-Zyme (Light): 12oz per gallon of water (10:1).
• Urine Pre-Treat: Use at full strength or 1:1 for heavy salt deposits.
• Odor Stain Blaster: Follow label for "Booster" vs "Spotter" (usually 1–2 scoops per gallon).

Success Sign-Off

1. Visual: Is the yellow stain gone?
2. UV Check: Does it still glow? (If yes, repeat Step 2).
3. Scent: Is the ammonia smell replaced by the product's neutral scent?
4. Dryness: Use an air mover to prevent "wick-back" from the sub-floor.

When the urine has reached the tack strip (the wooden nail strip at the edge of the wall) or the wooden sub-floor, it is considered a "Category 3" or "Total Loss" scenario. Standard cleaning will not work here because the wood acts like a sponge, trapping the odor forever. Here is the professional "extreme case" protocol for when a pad flush isn't enough.

The "Total Loss" Restoration Protocol1. Pull-Back & Inspection

• Action: Pull the carpet back from the corner or wall using pliers.
• The Check: Look at the tack strip. If it is black or dark brown, it is "rotted" with urine. Look at the sub-floor. If there are dark, salt-crusted rings on the wood/concrete, the floor is contaminated.

2. Demolition (The Only Way)

• Tack Strip: If the strip is black/saturated, remove it. You cannot clean a wooden tack strip; it must be pried up and thrown away.
• Padding: Cut out the contaminated section of the carpet pad. Never try to clean a pad in a "Total Loss" scenario. Replace it with a fresh piece of matching thickness later.

3. Sub-floor Decontamination

• Clean: Scrub the bare sub-floor with Cleansmart Urine Pre-Treat to dissolve the salts on the wood/concrete. Wipe dry.
• Neutralize: Apply Liqua-Zyme (undiluted) to the bare sub-floor. Let it sit for 30 minutes to digest any organic matter trapped in the wood grain or concrete pores.
• Dry: Use a high-velocity fan to ensure the sub-floor is bone-dry before the next step.

4. The "Permanent Lock" (Sealing)

• Action: Once the sub-floor is clean and dry, you must seal it.
• Product: Use an alcohol-based shellac primer (like Zinsser B-I-N) or a dedicated odor-blocking sealer.
• Application: Paint the sealer directly onto the sub-floor and 2 inches up the baseboard/wall if the pet "lifted a leg." This traps any remaining odor molecules under an airtight film so they can never off-gas.

5. Carpet Backing Treatment

• Action: While the carpet is pulled back, the back of the carpet is now exposed.
• Treatment: Spray the backing with Cleansmart Odor Stain Blaster. This kills the odor on the "underside" of the carpet which wands can't reach.

6. Re-Installation

• Install a new (clean) tack strip.
• Tape in a new piece of carpet pad.
• Re-stretch the carpet back into place.
• Perform a final surface clean with your standard Cleansmart process.

When to tell the customer "It’s time for new carpet":

• If the urine has soaked into the drywall/baseboards (look for "wicking" lines on the paint).
• If the latex backing of the carpet is crumbling or de-laminating (falling apart) due to the high ammonia levels of old urine.
• If the cost of the labor (pulling, sealing, replacing pad, re-stretching) exceeds 50% of the cost of new carpet.